Ecotourism in Northern Kenya

Growing up watching documentaries by Sir David Attenborough, Africa has always been a continent I have been fascinated by.

It has always been a dream of mine to film the incredible diversity of wildlife and landscapes that Kenya has to offer and to get the opportunity to create a film in such an incredible location was an experience I will never forget.

As a filmmaker and photographer, I am always on the lookout for that perfect shot, beautiful lighting and fascinating stories. Visiting Kenya offered an endless supply of all three.

The stunning location of Saruni Samburu, perched on a clifftop overlooking the expansive Kalama Conservancy, gave the perfect vantage point to observe and film the landscape and changing weather conditions, from atmospheric storm clouds to stunning sunsets.

At Saruni, 90% of employees are from the local community. Having grown up in the region, the guides can navigate the area like the back of their hand, giving guests (and me and my camera) the best chance of observing unique animal behaviour.

Being experts in the behaviour of Kenyan wildlife, the Samburu guides were able to get us as close as possible to the animals in order to get the best shot.

One unforgettable morning, I was left rapidly switching to my wide angle lens, as a herd of elephants calmly approached, almost within touching distance. Whilst I was somewhat alarmed, Sammy, our Samburu guide, grinned and assured me that this was very normal and the elephants were simply being inquisitive.

Later that evening, we were invited to see a traditional Samburu dance on the clifftop overlooking the conservancy. As a filmmaker, this was a dream scenario and an absolute privilege, to be invited by the tribesmen and women to observe their traditions, dressed in colourful shukas and chanting tribal songs in front of a glowing sunset.

This was my first visit to East Africa, and I cannot understate what an unforgettable experience it was. The Kenyan people are incredibly passionate about their wildlife and protecting it, and it’s great to see how tourism can play a part in this too.

The Impact of Community Led Conservation

For years, A safari in Kenya meant visiting one of the country’s famous national parks, such as the Maasai Mara or Amboseli. Whilst these are definitely fantastic places to observe wildlife, the majority of the country’s wildlife, up to 70% in fact, is actually found outside the protection of the country’s national parks.

In an effort to protect some of that wildlife, in recent years there has been a surge in the number of private reserves and conservancies set up, particularly in northern Kenya. Unlike National Parks, which are owned and run directly by the government, conservancies are owned and run by local communities.

Kalama Conservancy

One such reserve is Kalama Conservancy, which was founded in 2002 and home to Saruni Samburu.

Much of the land where conservancies have been created was historically pastoral, where wildlife was often seen as a nuisance. Creating conservancies has enabled both wildlife and local communities to thrive.

Locals saw how wildlife draws in tourists, and with the creation of luxury lodges such as Saruni Samburu, in turn, the money generated filters directly into local communities (rather than back to central government, as is often the case with national parks).

By providing work for local people, the money generated by tourism flows directly back to their families and communities.

90% of staff at Saruni Samburu are from Samburu villages surrounding the conservancy. Nicole, a young Samburu woman, started at Saruni in an entry level position. She has rapidly risen through the ranks to assistant manager, and told me how the money she earns enables her to send her siblings to school.

Sera Conservancy

Another conservation success story is Sera Conservancy, around two hours drive away from Kalama, and home to Saruni Samburu’s sister lodge, Saruni Rhino.

The area has historically been a hotspot for poaching and as a result, rhinos have been locally extinct for 25 years.

In 2001, local Samburu communities formed the Sera Wildlife Conservancy (SWC) with the aim of bringing together three historically rival ethnic groups to ensure the conservation and sustainable use of natural resources in their traditional lands.

In 2015, 10 black rhino were introduced to the area, and the Sera Rhino Sanctuary was established within the conservancy.

This has allowed the conservancy to offer a truly unique experience: tracking black rhino on foot.

With the redevelopment of Saruni Rhino providing the required infrastructure to host luxury travellers, money from tourism (including a daily conservation fee) is used to pay for rangers, vets, infrastructure etc giving the precious wildlife protection where once there was none.

A safari experience within a conservancy, promoting community-led conservation, is a win-win situation for all involved. The wildlife is protected and thriving, local guides are passionate about conserving their wildlife and visitors can have peace of mind that money being spent is directly benefiting local communities.

Watch the film this article accompanies: